Thank you! That is great!I often hand-solder USB-C sockets. As it happens, the particular ones I have on my shelf are easier than the USB-micro-B that I also have on the shelf (though these are historical choices and you could probably pick other ones that are the opposite way round).[I'm looking at the parts I can order and parts I can find in KiCAD I thought I would have an option to power the board from USB C only because there is that higher amperage option when you want to drive a lot of relays. Then I thought it would be trivial to add the USB data lines. The problem I have is I want to hand assemble the board and I only have an iron so with that many pins on the USB connector I'm starting to rethink the USB C port. At least until I figure out what I really need. Using a barrel jack for power too could be an option I need a power pass through option.
All you really need is one with only a single row of pins and for them to be not too far under the metalwork.
Are you familiar with drag-soldering technique (using flux to get the solder to stick to where you want it)?
This part is power-only:
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/ ... 17175-0001
This part is power-plus-USB2-pins (ie. what you usually want for RP2040 use):
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/d ... 0/11585731
Both have all the pins sticking out at the back and fairly easy to get at with the iron.
I've only really done SMD soldering a few times and what I got to do it was liquid flux and the wick. I did my SOP chips this way and everything worked out I used mostly through hole last time but I feel I can get better results if I use more SMD this time.
So with the USB you need these resistors to make it work? Is this correct?
Statistics: Posted by DarkElvenAngel — Sun Feb 04, 2024 6:29 pm